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Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder. Or if you believe French critics of the 1890s: "Absinthe makes you crazy and criminal ... it makes a ferocious beast of man, a martyr of woman, and a degenerate of the infant."

Our hotel in Hanoi stocked 4 different brands of the liqueur, available now after almost a century of censure. JoJo and I did tastings every night, dedicated to our friend Sol Lewitt who would have loved a glass himself, we're sure. His absence makes our hearts grow ever fonder.