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In the pre-dawn hours on the morning of the winter solstice in Campeche a small, group gathered for a celebration of the outgoing and incoming Mayan calendar cycle. At least, I think that's what it was about.

It was all very 'New Age', with much beating of drums, blowing of conches, burning of incense, offering of prayers and wearing of native garb - not since Mel Gibson's Apocolypto have I seen so many feathers. And there were plenty of heartfelt speeches about the meaning of it all followed by multitudinous blessings. In the end the sun never did come out. It was the first fully overcast day since our arrival.