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With walls and pillars painted a bright cotton-candy pink and ceilings of gumdrop blue, the CaoDai temple looks like a set from Willy Wonka. Or as Norman Lewis put it while visiting here in 1950: "... the most outrageously vulgar building ever to have been erected with serious intent."

The CaoDai-ists claim a membership of over 5 million - mostly in Vietnam and Cambodia.