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The room for the night, including dinner and breakfast, cost half a million rupiahs or about $35. But that goes a long way in these parts. We took over the family room while this woman, her husband and 3 children all slept in the small kitchen at the back of the house.

It's as yet impossible to rent a car on Flores but you can hire a car and driver. That's Yonce our driver/guide in the blue shirt. He's from Flores. He's a good driver, a lot of fun, and a very knowledgeable guide. He speaks Indonesian, Manggarai (one of the languages of Flores), English and is starting to learn Italian - which we helped him with in the 5 days we were together.