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Paan is something unique to southern Asia. It's a pretty weird concoction and it's available all over India. This paanwallah starts with a betel leaf (bottom left of photo) which he then slathers with lime paste (lime as in calcium - not citrus). On top of this he'll put an areca nut and then all kinds of other ingredients depending on what type of paan you want. This might include tobacco, spices, pieces of fruit, even a thin slice of pure silver foil.

Prolonged use will tint your mouth bright red and your teeth black - and you see many older men and women with this shocking coloring when they smile. After everything is added, he wraps the leaf up like an envelope and the buyer stuffs the whole thing into his mouth and chews, and chews.

It's a mild narcotic that is believed to be good for digestion. A lot of Indians are hooked on the stuff. Joanna and I both tried a "simple" paan. She finished hers, I spat mine out after chewing a few minutes. Just as well. I don't need another vice.