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At the corner of a narrow alleyway in downtown HCMC you'll find this restaurateur making banh xeo - Vietnamese pancakes. Her kitchen is outdoors, as are the table and chairs.

The batter is made with rice flour and coconut milk then fried up in a pan. She adds beansprouts, shrimp, pork and onion before flipping one half over the other and serving it - hot and crispy.

You grab one of the many leafy green things -- (mint, mustard greens etc.) -- that are on your table, wrap it around a piece of the pancake, dip it in some nuoc mam (fish sauce) and you are one happy camper.

Banh Xeo