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Traveling through Cambodia in March and April, just before the rainy season begins, is not easy. Temperature at these sites can often reach over 100º F (40ºC) at midday. Air-conditioned buses disgorge scores of tourists, some, like these, with tour group T-shirt "uniforms" and some with cow bells around their necks - God forbid they should stray too far and lose themselves.

There were moments when I wish I was able to shout in Korean or Japanese: "HURRY, HURRY, the bus is leaving!!!" - just to get the place to myself for a minute.