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We met our friends Gladis, Alan, Cinthia and Fernando and walked with them to the zocalo. The Virgin was being carried on a wooden plinth from her Santuario around the park and then to the river where she was placed on a barge.

Thousands of people gathered along the shore but the scene had none of the frantic, noisy energy of "bulls on the river". The atmosphere was solemn. We hopped on Luis’s boat, there were already a dozen people on it. This is a money maker for him. He charges 50 pesos a head for those who want to follow the Virgin’s barge up and down the Tlacotalpan shore.