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Turtle soup anyone? As you drive along the river road to Tlacotalpan you'll find families selling crabs, fish, shrimp, eels and turtles. We brought a few to Rafaella who turned them into a delicious meal.

The turtle was cooked in a thin blackish sauce that had a musky flavor colored by the burnt ground leaves of the moste bush. It's a pre-Columbian recipe.

These river turtles are plentiful, they're not an endangered species.