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I've built a few stone walls in my day and I appreciate the workmanship, style and beauty of this one. Small wedges of stone are inserted into the mortar to give the effect of rivulets coursing around the larger stones.

These walls have surrounded the central city since the early 1700s when they were built to protect inhabitants from those ever-pesky pirates. They are the main reason Campeche is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

But they've been getting a makeover these last couple of months and not everyone is happy - nor should they be.