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Like every city, Vientiane can be divided up into a series of villages. When we get into a tuk-tuk to go home we tell the driver Thong Sang Nang. That's our ban or village. Once we get there, we can further direct the driver, with liaw kwaa (turn right) or liaw saai (turn left) or seu seu (straight ahead).

All villages have a chieftain, he's your liaison to the higher authorities. If you want to get married, you go to him for the proper papers. If you want to build something, he's your "go to guy" for the permits.