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Christmas week we visited Jaffna, the city at the very northernmost point of the island. The military are here too - much more so than in the south. There are still roads closed off even to tourists. It was in this area that the Tamil Tigers, or LTTE, were concentrated during the long civil war. Over the years atrocities were committed by both sides. My sense is that it's going to be a while before those will be forgotten, much less forgiven.