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We don't scuba, but we do like snorkelling. So while other passengers on the boat fell over backwards with their tanks, flippers and wet suits, JoJo and I went happily skimming the surface with our masks and air spouts. And we saw lots. The biggest thrill was a huge manta ray gliding just beneath us. I only wish I'd had a waterproof camera so I could show you.

The islands off the coast of Labuang Bajo are also famous for very strong currents. There was one place we were going to stop to scuba/snorkel but the currents were running like river rapids and those in charge who know the waters well said this is a 'No Go' for today and took us to another spot. As our boatman explained, "This is where the Indian Ocean meets the Pacific. You have to be careful"