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Plaza Vieja, in the center of Havana Vieja, has been completely restored. It's a tourist haven. There are many nice places to stay and eat and drink - inexpensive by foreign standards - but still way out of reach for most Cubans whose average monthly salary is $20.

Fidel is about to turn 90 and his brother Raul who now runs the show is only a couple of years younger. Their days are numbered. I ask people "What's going to happen when the Castros are gone?." A smile and a shrug of the shoulders is the usual response. People don't talk politics here, it's risky. But I get from others that the military has always been in control and that's not going to change. Others think one of Castro's children will take over - a 'dynasty'.

One needs a great ego to take power - but that same sized ego seems to proscribe establishing a system that makes for an easy transition of power - a multi-party democracy, for example. For me, this is the greatest, but by no means only, failure of the Revolución.