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A marble staircase or an old caged elevator will take you to the second floor of Confiteria Ideal, a restaurant /cafe /bar /milonga in the center of Buenos Aires dating back to 1912. Here, on a Sunday afternoon, you can have a drink and a bite to eat while you watch, or dance, the Tango.

Everything about Tango is passionate. And you can find a place to Tango at almost any hour of the day or night.

But I find myself attracted to these serene milongas. People here are not part of a "scene" or a "Tango Show" -- they just want to dance -- and they do so with a kind of meditative zeal.